Composting need not be difficult nor make the organic gardener a neighbourhood pariah. Most problems can be overcome quite simply.
The following is a list of suggestions and ideas that may help the household composter with minor difficulties.
Size
A compost heap should be a maximum metre and a half high and the same around. For a batch compost a metre high is about the minium for a good strongly working pile.
Placing.
The compost heap should be built on the ground so that soil activators can work in the compost. Ingress and egress for earthworms too is needed.
The pile works well in semi-shade under a tree. Traditionally, it is said that a compost under an elder works best. The shade is needed to stop the compost drying out in direct sun.
Too slow.
Sometimes the compost heap seems to stop working. Check the four needed conditions of heat, moisture, nitrogen, and oxygen.
Too cold.
If winter has set in the pile may have become too cold. Perhaps a surround may keep cold winds off and allow the pile to warm. Otherwise, wait until next spring.
The temperature of the pile can be lowered because too much or too little of the other three factors (too much water, too little oxygen, too little nitrogen)
Moisture.
This commonly causes problems either through excess or their not being enough. The pile should be just damp. Too much moisture will flood it and replace the oxygen. Add more dry matter and ensure the water can get away.
In summer the pile may quickly dry out as it loses a tremendous amount of water during the heating process. If it becomes too dry it will not work, add a little water from the garden hose.
Oxygen.
Ensure air is getting into the pile. Thrust a stake or crowbar into it and waggle it about. Oxygen starvation can occur when wet products are squeezed together and mat down. This can happen when too much fresh grass is added.
Nitrogen.
Typically the compost begins well but stops too soon when there is too little nitrogen. Add something strongly nitrogenous such as chicken manure, blood and bone or human urine.
Smelly
If it seems putrid it is probably become anaerobic. Toss to open up and add more fresh material including some coarser stuff.
If there is a strong ammonia smell – it may be too much nitrogen or the pile may be too wet. It is possible for there to be too little nitrogen and for this to occur.
Activators
Some writers say that special activators are needed to get a compost started. Usually adding a covering of soil as a layer provides enough organisms to begin the pile working and it is not necessary to use an activator. Diluted urine (pee bucket) or half bucket of liquid manure may help by making nitrogen easily and quickly available and so “kick-start” the pile but such activators are not vital.
What goes in:
Just about anything that was once alive. Small bones from dinner yes, but larger bones should be broken up. Paper yes, but not too much. Be wary of shiny coloured junk mail rip this and use only small amounts. Eggshells, tealeaves, vegetable peelings, tobacco, flour products, and garden refuse are all suitable.
River and pond plants are good additions as is pond slime. Seaweed is a very valuable garden nutrient but needs to be rinsed free of salt. It can then be added to the compost or used to make an excellent liquid manure. Wood ash if you have it can be added.
What does not go in
Avoid or limit the following: disposable nappies, weeds with small bulbs, the roots of water hyacinth, too much fat ( plate scrapings fine, fat in the saucepan from cooking – too much. Cat dog and human manure (but see how in The Humanure Handbook by Joseph Jenkins).
Some leaves, especially from nut trees (walnut pecans), gum leaves, and pine needles cause problems. These, however, make a good mulch for weed suppression.
Leave out: plastic, salt, petrol, solvents and poisons.
Composting as an art and a science but it is not difficult and is a very forgiving process that is ecologically valuable and good for your garden.
